Whale sharks and great diving in this quiet corner of the Philippines
Sebastian Pena Lambarri
Southern Leyte may not be as famous as some of the Philippine's more celebrated diving spots, but don't let that fool you.
Leyte is the most easterly island of the Visayas region, and the island is also the least developed. It boasts exceptional scuba diving.
Currently, diving here is concentrated in Southern Leyte, which is gaining a reputation as one of the best places in the Philippines to see Whale Sharks.
The area also has beautiful coral reefs and plenty of rare marine life for critter lovers.
Highlights
Best diving spots
Undoubtedly, the star of the show are the numerous Whale Sharks that migrate past the southern tip of Leyte each year, stopping for a breather around Sogod Bay. Between November and May, this is one of the best spots in the Philippines to see Whale Sharks. Only snorkelling is permitted within a certain zone, but the shallow depth of the whale sharks and the extra mobility ensure exceptional encounters.
The Whale Sharks tend to gather around Panoan Island just to the east of Leyte. In the south of the island, there is a passage known as Sunok, where sightings are most likely.
If you want a break from the Whale Sharks, there are at least 25 other great dive sites in the area. Also on Panoan Island, Napantao Marine Sanctuary is a spectacular wall covered in huge gorgonians. If the current is running, you are likely to see plenty of pelagic life buzzing by here. In the north near Liloan is an adrenaline-fueled dive known as the Washing Machine.
Back on Southern Leyte, there is some very nice wreck diving around Maltibog, while Tankan & Santa Sofia have beautiful soft coral gardens and regular visits from Eagle Rays. Hawksbill Turtles are common here and this is a good site to hunt for elusive Frogfish & Mandarinfish.
If small critters are your thing, there are numerous shore dives such as Voltaire’s Rock & Baluarte that have many macro delights. The jetty at Padre Burgos is another great spot for macro-life. Frogfish, Ribbon Eels, Ghost Pipefish & Pygmy Seahorses are some of the critters you can find.
Limsawa Island, to the south of Leyte also has excellent diving, most notably Zach's Cove & Adrian's Cove - two wall dives with the chance to see something big.
When to dive
Southern Leyte's diving is best between October and March. The Sogod Bay Whale Shark season is between November and May. Conditions can be windy & rough outside these months, particularly June, July and August.
Getting there
To reach Southern Leyte, either fly to Cebu Mactan International Airport on Cebu and then take a ferry to Leyte or fly to Tacloban Airport, Leyte's capital. From here, dive shops can either arrange transfers or you can take a bus or taxi to the south of the island.
Activities
On dry land, Leyte is a very relaxed, quite remote area. The island has an interesting history, beautiful national parks to visit & some fascinating festivals and culture to enjoy.
Resort and liveaboard options
There are a handful of dive resorts in the area. Tourism here is less developed than in some other parts of the Philippines, so this area does not tend to have more luxurious resort options. The area occasionally features on liveaboard itineraries too, especially in the peak months for Whale Sharks.
We recommend the team at Liveaboard.com to find your Coron liveaboard adventure
Be aware that only swimming and snorkelling are permitted within a certain zone where Whale Shark sightings are most likely.
Did you know?
According to the Large Marine Vertebrates Research Institute Philippines (Larmarve), there are at least 330 separate Whale Shark individuals that visit Sogod Bay, a group largely composed of juvenile male Whale Sharks.
How to dive Southern Leyte
Despite the relatively remote location, there are some excellent dive resorts in Southern Leyte around Padre Burgos and Malitbog. All tend to be at a similar level in terms of accommodation standards. Options include Pintuyan Dive Resort, Sogod Bay Dive Resort and the well regarded Leyte Dive Resort. All have onsite dive centers, however you can book diving and compare dive centers through the Dive Booker portal.
Some Philippines liveaboards also ply the waters around Southern Leyte on itineraries that also take in other famous dive spots in the region. For the widest choice and a price guarantee, we recommend to arrange your liveaboard adventure through liveaboard.com. The beautiful Philippine Siren offers extended itineraries that also take in Southern Leyte seasonally. For options a little lighter on the wallet, the Infiniti liveaboard and the Sea Doors liveaboard also offer itineraries to the region.
Southern Leyte Snapshot
- When to go: Can be dives all year. Whale Sharks are seen in the area primarily in April and May.
- Marine life highlights: Whale Sharks..
- How to reach:Fly to Manila and take an onward flight to Tacloban. From here it is a three hour transfer to Southern Leyte, which your resort can assist you with. Alternatively, there are ferry services from Cebu and Bohol. Liveaboards usually begin in Cebu.
- Prices guide: Accommodation starts from around USD40 per night, plus diving and transfers.. Liveaboards begin from around USD180 per night.
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